*Please note that the photos are labeled with my old watermark. This site (scraptabulousstudio.com) is the current place to reach me.
I highly recommend reading the full tutorial once before getting started. I find it always helps to know where I'm headed when I'm knee deep in adhesive and paper scraps. :) Happy Crafting!
Required Supplies:2 sheets - 12x12 solid cardstock
-or- 3 sheets - 8 ½ x 11 solid cardstock
1 sheet - 12x12 pattern paper
regular adhesive/tape runner
glue dots
tacky tape/crafty power/sticky strip
paper trimmer
M.S. score board/scoring blade for trimmer
bone folder
scissors
24" of coordinating ribbon
velcro dots
1” circle punch/similar size circle cutter
1 - small size of “just blooms” flowers
1 - large size of “just blooms” flowers
craft knife/cutting blade
Optional Supplies:flexible wire (16 gauge)
liquid glass
Ready, Set, Create!...1. Cut solid cardstock to the following dimensions:
1 piece @ 7 ½ x 8 ¼
2 pieces @ 4 ½ x 4
1 piece @ 6 ½ x 10 ¾
From the scraps, punch/cut 6, 1” circles.
2. Cut pattern paper to the following dimensions:
1 piece @ 4 ¼ x 5 ½
1 piece @ 4 ¼ x 3 ¼
1 piece @ 4 ¼ x 2 ¾
2 pieces @ 3 ¼ x 1 ¾
4 pieces @ 3 ¼ x ¼
1 piece @ 1 ¾ x 4 ¼
You should wind up with cardstock and pattern paper that looks something like this when it's all laid out.
3. On the two 4 x 4 ½ sheets of cardstock, start scoring on the 4” side. Score at ½, 1, 3 and 3 ½.
4. Rotate the paper 90° counter clockwise and score at 3 ½ and 4. Do this for both sheets of paper. (Sorry for switching paper colors on you. I couldn't get very good scoring shots with the dark paper so I re-took some of the photos when I created my proof tote.)
5. On the 6 ½ x 10 ¾ piece start on the 6 ½ side and score at 4 ½.
6. Rotate the piece 90° counter clockwise and score at 3 and 5.
7. On the 7 ½ x 8 ¼ piece start with the 7 ½ side at the top. Score at ½, 5 and 7. Hopefully you can see some of these lines on the lighter cardstock a little better. My camera was giving me fits with the macro setting so I'm sorry if all the pics aren't quite as clear as they should be.
8. Rotate 90° counter-clockwise and score at 5 ¾ and 7 ¾. Also score at 6 ¼ but only down to the second horizontal score line that you come to. Picture 2 (the bottom pic) shows a close-up of this. You'll notice that my bone folder rotates around with the paper. Hopefully that's helpful for the visual learners!
9. Rotate the cardstock again but 180° this time. Score at 6 only to the second horizontal score line you come to. Again, picture 2 is a close-up.
10. Now for the cutting. On the 7 ½ x 8 ¼ cut the sections as shown with the 7 ½ side at the top. Be sure to note the sections where the tabs were made. This picture doesn't show it well, but there is also a cut that is made on the third score line from the left that starts at the cut out portion cutting ½ inch up to the second score line from the bottom. It allows you to make a fold during assembly.
11. On the 6 ½ x 10 ¾ sheet with the 6 ½ side at the top cut as shown in the picture below.
12. For both of the 4 x 4 ½ pieces cut out the corner “l”s as shown and be sure to make a tab out of the remaining square in the corner as shown.
13. Now, grab all of your pattern paper sheets and adhere them to the cardstock pieces as shown below. I really recommended laying them all out first to make sure you've got them in the right spots before you start sticking them down. Also, use a bone folder to crease all of the score lines at this time. Make sure you've got them all going the right way as shown below. In the picture my pieces are all folded so the peaks rise up from the paper. Hope that makes sense!
14. For assembly, I like to use something that's a little more powerful than my every day adhesive. I've chosen to use crafty power today. I got mine at JoAnn. You can also use tacky tape, sticky strip, whatever you like as long as it sticks well. Place strips along the sides and bottom of the two smaller pieces and along the sides and bottoms of the one larger angled piece as shown below.
15. Grab the two small pieces that will become the side pockets and peel off the protector strip on the bottom adhesive line. Don't peel off the sites just yet. Fold up the bottom and the little tabs. Stick the sides on to the bottom as shown below. Create both side pieces and set aside.
16. Time to assemble the tote base. This piece shown below is the front and right side of the main tote. Peel off the protective strip on the bottom of the right side as shown below. Fold and attach to the bottom of the tote as shown in the photo on the right. This is where you need that extra cut I mentioned earlier. If you don't have it, this step won't work.
17. Now, turn the piece around so you're looking at the inside. Fold up the little edge and peel back the edges of the protective paper. Fold and attach the sides and tabs together as shown below.
18. Time to stick the two parts together and make the main tote. Place the piece you've been folding down on a table with the pattern paper side facing you with the long side to the right as shown. Take the other large piece and attach the section that does not have any pattern paper on it onto the side of the other piece. Be sure to line up your corners and sides carefully so you don't wind up with a crooked base.
19. Now, peeling off the protective paper as you go, wrap one piece around the other making sure you line up the edges carefully. The top picture shows the tote base with the front up and looking into it from the top. The picture on the bottom is the finished base when it's standing upright. If you've made it this far, the worst is over! I promise that the rest is super simple to follow.
20. Grab your sides that you set aside and peel off all the protective paper. Line up the bottom of the pocket to the bottom of the tote and press on the inside of the pocket to secure. I like to use my bone folder to make sure I've gotten the bottom and corners stuck well. Do the same to the other side. Your tote should now look like the picture on the bottom.
21. The six circle punches are going to make the feet and the “wheels.” Take 4 of the circles and fold them in half, open them, and fold in half the other way making an x on them. (Shown in the top picture.) Now cut up one of the fold lines to the center of the circle on all four of the folded circles. Attach a glue dot to one of the triangles that is adjacent to the cut line. (Shown in the middle picture.) Fold the one triangle flap over the other to attach the glue dot and make a little three sided tent looking thing. Do that with all 4 circles to make the feet. Then place 2-3 glue dots, if you are using the mini kind, to the outside of the double cardstock folded side of the tents. (Shown in the bottom picture.)

22. With the tote face up and looking at the bottom, attach two of the feet to the upper outer corners of the base as shown in the picture on the top. Flip the tote over so it's face down and attach the other two feet with the corner edge facing the back side and slightly more toward the center of the tote as shown in the picture on the bottom.
23. Apply adhesive to your ribbon and attach it to the back of the tote starting by the feet you just attached. You want your ribbon to stick over the top edge but only be attached to the back side. Once you've got both your ribbons on, apply glue dots to the top third of the 2 left over circles and attach part way over the bottom of the base and over the back “feet” to cover them as shown in the picture on the bottom.
24. The photo on the top shows the back of your tote as it should look now. With your craft knife, carefully cut two slits on the fold line just big enough to slide your ribbon through to the inside. Once the ribbon has been threaded through the cuts, fold it down toward the inside of the tote and attach it with glue dots as shown in the photo on the bottom.
25. For a ribbon handle as shown below, thread the ends of a third piece of ribbon through the same slits and attach with glue dots to the previous ribbon and cardstock to adhere. I recommend making the ends a bit longer so they go beyond the ribbon that was previously attached on the inside. This will help stabilize the handle further. Do not use regular adhesive for adhering the handle, it could easily come apart if lifted when the tote is full of cards. You can also use liquid glass to ensure a strong hold for the handle.
* An alternate option is to twist a metal handle from wire. I suggest using 16 gauge wire. Measure the distance between your ribbons on the back of the tote and bend/twist away to create a traditional looking rectangular style handle. Attach the wire just as you would for a ribbon handle, except make a loop on each end of the wire that's on the inside and attach to the cardstock with a puddle of liquid glass.
**There have been questions about needing to make the ribbon a two step attachment process. It was designed this way to keep the ribbon handle from pulling off of the cardstock when it's carrying heavy items. I created this tote as a gift giving item for my retreat attendees. When the tote is carrying chocolate (yum!) and other goodies it can get heavy and I wanted the handle to be secure. I used ribbon for mine and made little liquid glass puddles over the ribbon on the inside to ensure it would stay together forever, no matter how many times it got picked up. If you'd like, you can simply attach the ribbon all in one piece creating the back rails and handle in one.
26. To keep the tote closed, I used a small circle of adhesive backed velcro. I placed the fuzzy side on the back of the lid flap, attached the rough side to the fuzzy side and then carefully closed it. Press firmly and gently lift the flap open. You should now have a part of the velcro on each side and it's perfectly lined up! Be sure to press firmly again when the tote is open to secure the velcro. I recommended trying not to use the velcro closure a lot for a few hours just to let the adhesive and cardstock bond.
27. There is no real need for the next step, it's purely aesthetic because the Velcro is fully hidden. I decided that I wanted a cute front to my tote though, so I sponged one large Just Blooms with Tulip ink, one small Just Blooms with Blush ink and attached them together with a large glue dot. Then I layered a pearl from the onto a Colonial White button and attached that to the blooms with a large glue dot. One more glue dot on the back of the whole thing and stick it on the front of your tote for a super cute faux closure cover.
28. Stand up your little rolling tote, and give yourself a pat on the back, you did it! The picture below shows mine as I had completed it for my original post on the consultant artwork bulletin board and the one that I created when I proofed the tutorial. I hope you enjoyed making your very own rolling tote!
This tote will fit approximately 12 cards and envelopes inside. If you tend to make dimensional cards, it will fit 8 comfortably. If you have any questions or issues that arise while making your tote, please don't hesitate to contact me for assistance. You can reach me on this blog or by email at:
gloriajrogers@gmail.com.
Happy paper crafting everyone!